With the growing popularity of Pandora and other european style charm bracelet companies like Troll and Chamilia in recent years, there has also been been a steady rise in the number of counterfeit and imitation pieces that try to copy their distinct and beautiful style. It’s especially difficult given that for a lot of us collectors, buying online is the only way to get our hands on some of the rarer pieces that were either retired before we got into Pandora or were not available in our country. In this post I’ll write about some tips and basic information on how to spot a fake Pandora charm. Does it have the right Pandora markings? All Pandora products are engraved with several distinct markings that can be used to distinguish them from imitators or other brands. The ALE marking The first and most notable marking is the three letter marking “ALE”. This marking comes from Per Enevoldsen, the original founder of the Pandora jewelry company, and are the initials of his father Algot Enevoldsen. All Pandora charms and and accessories will have this ALE hallmark engraved on the piece, usually close to where the sterling silver or gold mark is. If the piece does not have this mark, then for sure it is not a genuine Pandora piece. This used to be an easy identifier of a counterfeit, but the imitators out there are getting better at copying the Pandora pieces and will often include the ALE mark now so it’s not a guaranteed indicator. Crown over the O This marking is only on the barrel clasps – another good indication that the bracelet is authentic. However, older Pandora bracelets/necklaces do not have the crown over the O (my two-tone necklace does not have the crown) because they did not come with the crown before 2008. This is usually because the store had older inventory, so no need to worry if that’s the only oddity. The Sterling 925 and Gold 585 markings These two numbers, the 925 for sterling silver and 585 of 14k gold, is an international standard and required markings for jewelry pieces made from these two materials. While it sounds nice to have something made from pure silver or gold, these precious metals are actually very soft and benefit greatly from having other metals mixed in with them to form an alloy. Sterling silver must contain at least 92.5% silver, so hence the 925 marking that’s seen on all Pandora sterling silver pieces. The same goes for 14 karat gold, which must contain at least 58.5% gold. Pandora gold pieces are engraved with the number 585, again usually near where the ALE marking is placed. In addition to the 925 mark on Pandora silver jewelry, beginning in June 2011 Pandora has added an “S” in addition to 925, a change in the international standard to identify silver jewelry. So don’t worry if some of the older charms have no “S” and only the traditional 925. As for two-tone (duotone) charms and jewelry, Pandora will only stamp it with the S 925 or 925 mark since all the two-tone charms are still mainly silver with gold accents. Like the ALE trademark of the Pandora line, the lack of a 925 or 585 numerical marking on a piece is a surefire sign that it’s a fake piece. Counterfeiters are getting wiser, however, and will often include these marks on the higher end imitation pieces even if the charm or jewelry piece is not actually made from that material.

Learn how to make a basic ball knot. Learn how to make a braided knot. Learn how to make a basic overhand knot. by Diane Ericson an Online Extra to #117 Have a few fabric scraps lying around? I mean those little scraps that you've been saving for years. Well, you were right. There is a good use for them. Almost any fabric or leather can be knotted, rolled, padded, or wrapped into decorative shapes you can use anywhere that you'd use ordinary beads or buttons. You can string them into necklaces or stitch them, make them hard as rocks or leave them soft, and embellish them all you want with additional stitches, beads, and other surface effects. Making little fabric gems is quick and easy, and you'll find everything you need around your home: a sturdy needle, scissors, knitting needles or nails, and some white glue. As you can see from the photo, fabric beads and buttons tend to be oversized, but depending on how you choose to pair them with other elements in your wardrobe, they can be inconspicuous or outrageous or anything in between. The only thing they won't be is ordinary. Fabrics Different fabrics will work with varying results, so the main thing you need to know about your fabric is whether you like the way it looks when it's knotted. To see how your fabric will knot, twist a length of it and tie it in an overhand knot. If you're using a thin piece of fabric and want a larger knot, you'll need to fold a wider piece or wrap it around some other scrap fabric to add bulk. You don't have to use a bias strip, but some fabric prints will look more interesting on the bias, and bias strips roll nicely into tubes. Knit fabrics work fine. You can choose to leave raw edges exposed or fold them completely out of sight as shown at right before making your knot. To make beads in graduating sizes, the strip you make your knot from and/or the filling material you use to pad it with has to increase or decrease in thickness to step the beads up or down. Assemble small stacks of filler scraps to be included in each bead, and use them to make two or more beads in a row of the same size, then change the amount of fabric you use for the next two, and continue making varying sizes until you have the range you want. Folding, knotting, and finishing Below you'll find directions for a variety of basic knots, folds, and rolls that you can apply to your fabrics. Basic overhand knot Basic ball knot Braided knot Rolled beads and toggles Single rolled beads and toggles There's nothing fancy about the knots. Typically you form them with the same kind of attention to their appearance you'd apply to a decorative bow, tightening and adjusting them until you like the way they look. After knotting, trim the ends and tuck them out of sight using a sturdy needle or a nail. If you've added filling, remove it entirely so the end is as thin as possible. You can stitch the ends in place or hold them with a spot of glue hidden inside the knot. Put the glue in, then tack the tail in between the strands. If you want your knots to be soft looking and feeling just like the fabric they're made from, work with the fabric dry. You can also make any of these knots into hard beads by dipping the fabric, before knotting, in a half-cup or so of white glue mixed with water to the consistency of milk. Dip your fabric pieces in the glue mixture until they're saturated, squeeze them lightly, then knot. After the beads have a chance to dry, drill a hole in them and thread them onto a string. You can also knot or wrap the wet fabrics around a nail or a knitting needle so that the beads are formed with a hole in the middle. Slip them off the nails before they dry. If you want a waterproof finish, string your creations on a heavy thread and dip the dry knots into a clear glossy- or satin-finish polyurethane wood sealer (I use Varathane), and hang the beads up to dry, spreading them out so they don't stick to each other. I prefer a satin finish, but a gloss surface would also be interesting. If you leave your beads soft, I suggest spraying them with Scotchgard to help the fabric resist dirt.

Since 2006, we have been designing unique jewelry so that you stand out from the crowd. We create everything ourselves in the heart of Ohio, so you can be sure that your jewelry is handcrafted in the USA. Most of our jewelry is created in my little stone cottage, so it is truly “cottage industry”! Whether you are a retail or a wholesale customer, we are ready to meet your needs. Call or email us today with any questions. Your satisfaction is our top priority and we provide immediate shipping to the US and Canada...

More Information about Our Processes There are many different processes for making rose petal rosary beads, most of which involve boiling a large number of petals and mixing them with various organic ingredients. We do it a little differently because we not only wish to preserve the flowers, but want to make sure that the finished bead is going to last as long as possible. We chop and then grind the dried petals down, gently knead the rose powder into the chosen clay, hand-roll the beads to 8mm each and fire them (unglazed) in a kiln. This creates strong, ceramic beads that contain the essence and elements of the original petals, thereby preserving the memory for a lifetime. Alternatively, we can use polymer clay. Both materials are excellent, but each has its advantages and disadvantages: Ceramic Clay Polymer Clay Color and Appearance Ceramic or "earth" clay starts out white, brown or terra cotta. We add clay stain to bring about other colors, but the colors are generally soft, pastel-like, and have a matte-finish. Name a soft, pastel color, and we can "make it happen" with ceramic clay. We do not glaze the ceramic beads. The flower fragments cannot be directly seen in the clay, but irregularities in the surface reveal them. A large variety of colors are available, including strong, bold ones not available in ceramic clay. Also, colors can be easily mixed, and additives kneaded in to give the beads pearl-like, sparkle, translucent, or even glow-in-the-dark effects. They look smooth, almost polished, compared to ceramic clay beads. The flower particles are usually visible to the unaided eye. Shape and Size Whether ceramic or polymer, we usually make the beads 8mm spherical (unless requested otherwise). We can make larger, smaller and other shapes upon request (cylindrical, barrel, square, disk, pony, conical and others). Feel/Touch Ceramic clay beads feel like the water-worn pebbles one might find in a stream; it is slightly abrasive, like a fine sandpaper. If the rosary is kept in a pocket the constant rubbing will wear against the metal parts of the rosary and remove metal. This can darken the beads, and the metal might also be transferred to (and darken) the fingers. Polymer clay is smooth and non-porous. It doesn't appear to have any abrasive action on metal components. Longevity Kiln fired ceramic clay can last thousands of years. The longevity of polymer clay isn't certain. But it is a PVC-like plastic material, impervious to water, and should last hundreds of years. The color, however, may fade if exposed to excessive sun or other UV light sources. Solvents, cleaners or other chemicals may have unanticipated effects. Bead Strength Both materials are very strong. The ceramic clay beads are rigid like small stones, where the polymer beads have a degree of flexibility and resiliance. Both can be broken if purposefully attempted - with a hammer, for example - but common actions like an accidental drop or placing something heavy on top them is not going to cause any damage to the beads. Nor will an accidental trip through the washing machine - something that would destroy organic beads. In normal use, it is unlikely that an individual bead will ever experience more than about 5 pounds of force. In our testing, 200 pounds of direct pressure had no visible effect upon the ceramic bead. The same 200 pounds caused the polymer bead to deform and begin to crack (at lower pressures it was fine). Speed It takes just about the same length of time regardless of the clay used. They both require similar working, mixing, rolling, pinning and firing. Though the firing process is longer for ceramic clay, it does not significantly-affect the overall rosary-making process. Smell Rose beads do not naturally have any fragrance. Regardless of the bead-making method used, the rose-odor must be added to the beads after the firing process (even with almost all organic processes, too). We do this using rose oil, and usually omit this unless it is specifically requested so as to avoid allergy problems or situations where people don't care for the particular perfume or oil used. If you ever wish to add more "smell" to the beads, rose-fragrance oil is available at many craft shops; keeping the beads with a sachet will have a similar effect. Cost The cost to make the clay beads, themselves, is the same whether they are ceramic or polymer, about $50 for a typical rosary. Add the labor to then assemble the rosary, plus the cost of the other parts, and most rosaries made with real roses start around $75. We offer discounts of 10% or more for large orders in which we can make the clay in a single, large batch. Which is better? It is purely a matter of personal taste. However, if the rosary is likely to be kept in a pocket or purse, if you want to be able to see the flower particles in the clay, or if you would like a stronger, non-pastel color, then we recommend polymer clay instead of ceramic for reasons mentioned above. We usually use polymer clay unless you specifically request otherwise. Close-up Image of Sample Beads Polymer clay beads are available in almost any color, even mixed/swirled colors. They are smoother and the rose petal particles are visible in the clay. Ceramic clay beads are available in pastel colors, white and terra cotta. They generally have a rough exterior. How to Order Try our fancy new, or If ordering the beads alone or a small chaplet like a bracelet, there is a minimum charge of $25 for making the beads. If the online ordering system seems too complicated or confusing, please feel free to simply mail your roses to us along with a note describing your order. See the questions, below, for a list of the information we need. After Ordering... Once you place your order, please send your dried rose petals to us in a padded paper envelope (the petals are easily dried on a tray in an oven set to low heat). Our address is at the bottom of every web page. We will need at least the petals from one entire flower for each set of rosary beads. If you wish to send more, that is fine, but one will be enough (even a single petal is sufficient if that is all you have, as the bulk of the bead is clay). Please do not send them in a sealed plastic bag - any residual moisture can lead to mold. If you have any last-minute, special requests about the rosary, it is usually best just to include them in writing with the flowers. Please allow 2 weeks from the time we receive your rose petals for us to make the beads - up to 4 weeks if we are also making a rosary with them. Do not be alarmed if we do not use all of the roses that you send. It is important that we do not weaken the clay by adding too many rosepetals. Common Questions How do I preserve the flowers? It is best for us if they arrive already dried. They do not need to be on the stem. We remove the petals from the stem anyway and use only the petals in the clay. It is easy to dry petals by removing them from the stem, laying them on a cookie sheet and warming them on low heat in an oven, or by setting them in the sun for a few days.

This cute activity is perfect for a Halloween party or crafting afternoon. We used Color Changing UV Beads in these Pony Bead Critters that can hang from backpacks, zippers, lockers, classroom ceilings, party favor bags or wherever. They will even change color in the sunlight. Here’s step-by-step instructions on how to make a skull using UV Beads. We’ve also included links to other sites that offer a ton of different Halloween bead patterns. You can use any pattern and just substitute the UV Beads for pony beads. Halloween is one of my favorite holidays, partly because I love its history and partly because I love how it has a life apart from that original history! There are simple Halloween bead patterns for holiday crafts are all over Pinterest. That being said, here’s how I like to make a Halloween skull. Not just any ordinary Halloween skull, mind you; let’s make a skull that has two faces. To do this, you will need some Steve Spangler Science UV Beads. Make a pile of 32 beads of one pale color. Make a pile of 7 darker beads. White and black are great, but be creative! Just be sure you’ve got a big pile of beads that will be pale even when exposed to UV rays, and a smaller pile of beads that will get darker in the sunlight. UV beads are all white until exposed to the sun’s rays, so be sure you are keeping your colors apart! Cut a piece of heavy string about 2 feet long. Thread both ends through a long, strong needle. Fold the string in half and tape it to a table or cutting board so it won’t move when you tug on it. And you will be doing some serious tugging! Some people like to tie a clasp of some kind at the top so your skull is easy to hang. I prefer leaving some slack thread at the top for hanging. Your call.

Ready to try a different technique in the new year? Take those beautiful beads you love working with and turn them into beaded cuff bracelets! You don’t have to learn any crazy new skills when you’re figuring out how to make beaded cuffs. Sometimes it’s even as simple as using glue to attach the beaded piece to a fabric backing. Plus, most beaded cuff bracelets are adjustable so that you can go as bold or as minimal as you’d like with your style. Try out some new techniques and maybe even a new style with these beaded cuff bracelets from our Craftsy designers. 1. Fire and Ice Beaded Cuffs This fab cuff uses circular peyote stitch to create ice and fire-inspired color palettes. The tutorial comes with instructions for both colorways. According to the designer, a basic knowledge of beadweaving is helpful for learning the circular peyote technique. Get the pattern » 2. Peyote Wide Cuff with Cube Beads The designer says that all these cube beads woven together creates a bracelet that’s just as comfortable as a leather cuff. Use the same color bead throughout, or create some color blocking with complementary colors. Take a look at the designer’s other photos of the bracelet for more color inspiration. Get the pattern » 3. Mirrix Tapestry/Bead Cuff Bracelet This cuff was created by Craftsy instructor Claudia Chase for her class. Claudia used a Mirrix Loom to weave the beautiful tapestry of the bracelet. Download the pattern for the bracelet or enroll in the class to get all Claudia’s tricks and tips for creating bead and tapestry cuffs. Get the pattern » 4. How to Finish a Beaded Cuff Bracelet If you already know how to bead but aren’t sure how to attach it to a cuff, this tutorial is for you. The designer guides you step-by-step in attaching your beadwork to a blank cuff, plus adding a professional-looking backing to finish it off. Get the pattern » 5. BeJuled Cuff This beaded cuff has a design that looks a lot harder than it actually is. You can make the bracelet as wide or as narrow as you’d like it; just keep any changes in mind as you’re shopping for supplies. 6. Montana Ridge Beaded Cuff This is a fantastic way to use up those random beads that are leftover from other projects. I love the color palette in the sample above, but you could also use several shades of the same color for a cool ombré effect. Get the pattern » 7. Golden Cuff Beaded Bracelet Make this cuff as it is, or trade out the pearls for beads you already have. You can even shorten the height of the bracelet by trading the long bugle beads for shorter ones. Even a beginner can complete this versatile design. Get the pattern » 8. Moon Flower Cuff Bracelet A right angle weave — and the perfect embellishment — are used to create this bracelet. The instructions come with diagrams and illustrations to make the bracelet longer or shorter so you can get the perfect fit. Get the pattern » 9. Celtic Knot Cuff Tutorial Looking for a beadwork pattern that’s a bit more challenging? This Celtic knot uses 19 different colors of beads. You’ll need to know how to do an odd-count peyote stitch before you begin.

Online Gallery Market Place! A new way to buy my one-of-a-kind pieces online. It's in early development but I thought I'd share it with you here. I have a great selection of earrings available. New Tribal Necklaces at my Holiday Shows! I have a busy holiday show season ahead and wanted to share one of my new pieces with you - the Tribal Necklace. Shown below are the Brights & Blacks Tribal Necklace and a Tribal Necklace in more muted tones. . . . Take a Peek inside my studio... I'm dipping my toe into the blog world to share my studio with those of you who don't have an opportunity to visit me in person here in Gloucester, MA. I'll have notes and some one-of-a-kind pieces available to purchase from time to time. Here's a link... . . . Did You Know? Take the Train from Boston to Beth's Studio! Beth's studio is less than an hour from Boston by train and is only a 5-block 10 minute walk from the Gloucester main train station stop!

Gather your materials. While Perler beads, jump rings, and Perler accessories can usually be found in craft stores, you might have to order the key chains online. You can also just use string to attach your creation to the item you're accessorizing. Prepare the work area. Pull out a pegboard, if you're using one, or use a hard, iron-safe work surface like a wooden table. Make your pattern. Arrange the Perler beads on the pegboard or surface in whatever pattern you want, such as a heart or Pokeball. Use a picture for reference if you need to. Prepare to iron. If using a pegboard, carefully transfer it to an ironing board and turn on the iron. If not using a pegboard, leave the beads on the surface and turn on the iron. Place a sheet of parchment paper or Perler ironing paper over your design. Make sure the iron is on a "dry" setting, not a steam one. Press the hot side of the iron over the beads. Carefully move it in a circular motion, making sure that all of the beads are fused. Pressing too hard or moving too roughly can knock beads out of place! Completely fused beads shouldn't have visible holes in the center. Set the iron aside. Put a heavy flat object on top of your creation and let the beads cool. Remove the heavy object. Lift the fused beads and flip them over, then iron the back for a smooth, finished look. Part 2 Turning Your Craft into a Keychain Carefully poke a hole through one of the perimeter beads. If you have jump rings, spread one open with your fingers or jewelry pliers. Push it through the hole in your creation. If using string, thread it through the hole. Secure the jump ring around the key chain's end, joining it through the key chain's last link. If using string, simply loop the string through the key chain's last link (you can loop it through more than once for extra strength), tie it off in a knot, and trim the ends. Attach the key chain to a buckle, zipper tag, or decorative metal loops on the purse/backpack/etc. Alternatively, tie the Perler bead creation directly to the purse/backpack/etc. using string. Tips Using more than one bead color can add depth to your design. The ironing paper or parchment paper protects your iron from the plastic beads. I've found that using parchment paper works just as well as the official Perler ironing paper, but feel free to experiment. A picture can be really helpful in figuring out your design! The heavy object placed upon the Perler pattern during cooling helps prevent the beads from warping. Warnings Using a pegboard is recommended, because otherwise it's very easy for the design to be skewed or knocked out of place.

Once upon a time (8 or so months ago) I had this great idea that I was going to open up an Etsy shop...then I got pregnant and realized I had no time for something extra. I came to the conclusion I enjoy sharing and showing you how to make your own jewelry so much more than I would selling it. So here is to another fun and super easy polymer clay diy! This is s great project to start with if you are a beginner or polymer clay seems intimidating to you. You can not mess this one up. What you will need: Polymer clay-you can use as many colors as you want. The color combinations are endless. Waxed cotton cord Toothpick Begin by conditioning your clay in between your hands until it is soft and pliable. Roll out your clay beads by taking a small piece of clay and then making a little ball with the palm of your hand. You can make them as large or small as you like. Use the toothpick to poke a hole in the center of each bead. If the clay you are using is really soft, you can wear latex gloves to help prevent fingerprints. Place your beads on a baking tray and bake according to clay directions. I baked mine at 270 degrees for 25 minutes. String your beads onto the cotton cord. This is where you can get creative. You can place all your beads on one stand or make a bunch of necklaces and layer them. Totally up to you!

Steps Choose your project. Different jewelry projects require different wire, so choose wire anew each time you begin a new type of wire jewelry creation. Choose what material you want to use. Wire comes in aluminum, iron, copper wire, craft, colored, French wire, gold-filled, memory wire, sterling silver wire, silver plated and tiger tail. The price largely depends upon the material used to make the wire. Tiger tail wire is a very common wire in jewelry making. It is a braided stainless steel wire that is coated in nylon...